RaspberryBox 2PIr – Project Overview

Let me just start by saying that RaspberryBox 2PIr is absolutely a working name and will prooobably not be what I end up calling this when I’m done with it.

So the idea is this. I have an xbox 360 (halo 3 limited edition) that has been collecting dust for years now. It doesn’t work, so as a console it’s useless. I didn’t wanna throw it out ’cause it’s quite aesthetically pleasing, so I’ve always said “one day I will turn this into a media PC”.
Recently I bought a raspberry pi 3 for exactly that purpose.

In case you haven’t figured it out yet, 2PIr is the equation for getting the circumference of a circle, which in my mind equates to 360 degrees. So yeah. The name kiiiinda works…. but it’s not nice to look at.

Anyway, I’ve decided that the 360’s shell isn’t going to just be a case for the pi. Obviously I’ll still need access to its USB and HDMI ports. And if I’m extending those out to use the USB slots in the 360 (or at least the placements of them) I may as well use other bits of the 360 too!
It turns out that the RF module (the part that controls the wireless connectivity to/from controllers) not only unplugs really easily from the motherboard, but can actually be wired up to USB and works with the official drivers for the Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver for Windows – and by extension (I assume) the equivalent drivers for Linux.
I’m also going to rewire the 360’s harddrive connection to USB, since the harddrives used by 360s are just normal 2.5″ sata harddrives. So I’ll open one (or three) of those up, replace the stock harddrive with a 2TB harddrive (because 20GB isn’t really useful for a media PC) and I’ll be able to swap those out as I desire. I’ve also got a 3rd party adapter for them so that I can access the harddrives from another computer if I ever need to.
But that’s not all! I’m gonna use the original IR reciever, sync button, DVD eject button (but probably not DVD drive – I’ll get a new one), power button, and (to the extent that I can figure it out) the 4 LEDs that indicate controller status. Oh and the original 12v power brick too.

I’ll talk about each of these as I do them in progress posts.


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